Dyeing batik by dipping method (celup)

After the wax has been affixed onto the cloth, dyeing batik comes next. This is the most fun part of the batik process. It always brings the most excitement and is never short of surprises.There are two common methods of colouring a batik textile, namely celup (to dip) and colet (to brush).

Selecting the Dye

Regardless of the method, let’s first learn about the dye, the colouring agent. In Indonesian batik, both natural and synthetic dyes are common.

Natural dyes are the compounds extracted from natural sources such as tree barks, leaves or fruit skin. In Indonesia, indigofera and soga are the commonly used natural dyes to give indigo and brown colour, respectively. In order to pull out the coloured essence, one needs to boil the ingredients for a few hours. The dye is ready to be used after it is cooled down. The biggest challenge is, like any other natural compound, extraction requires a LOT of raw material. Besides, the dipping must be done in a few cycles so that the colour sticks on the cloth. Dyeing with natural dyes maybe more tedious but the result is superior. Like a fine wine, as the masterpiece ages, the more vibrant the colours will be.

With the incoming international traders, Indonesian batik artisans are introduced to synthetic dyes. The use of synthetic dyes is relatively easier and faster as compared to natural dye. When buying a synthetic dye, ensure that cold dye is used. It is common sense but we screwed up in our workshop. Lesson learnt: hot dye melts down the wax. In Indonesia, naphthol, indigosol and rhemasol are the synthetic dyes that are commonly used. Each has its own pros and cons for application on different fabric types. For example, naphthol and indigosol are used for dip-dyeing whereas rhemasol is used for colet application.

Celup: Dyeing Batik by Dipping

Dipping method, like its name suggests, is a simple but messy method to colour a batik cloth. It is done by simply placing the waxed cloth into a dye vat. However, prior to that, soak the waxed cloth into a pail of water mixed with TRO (Turkish Red Oil), or mild detergent, for about 15 minutes. This is done to remove any impurities that may be introduced during the waxing process. Slowly lower the cloth into the dyeing agent and gently move the dye solution around the cloth, especially along the fold lines. Soaking may be required.

Once completed, let the water drips back into the vat and hang dry. Depending on the dye type, the cloth may hanged under the sun or immersed into another vat of salt solutions. This is done to activate the dye compound (yes, chemistry is at work!) or to affix the dye to the cloth. Once the whole cycle is completed, rinse the cloth using clean water until the water runs clear.

It is important that, at any point, do not crush or wring the cloth as the wax may crack and colours may sip in.

Colet: Dyeing Batik like a Painter

Dyeing batik by brushing method (colet)

Another dyeing method is to colet (brushing), which is exactly similar to painting colours using a brush. The technical details, from the favourite brush types or brush strokes, are no different from how a painter selects his brushes and apply paints on canvas. After the “painting”, the final artwork requires a coat of affixing agent. This is to prevent the colour from running during wax removal or subsequent washing.

By using colet method, many artists experiment to produce more colourful works. Traditionally, the colour-painted portion is covered with wax, followed by dip-dyeing the background colour. Now, many artists brush the background colour as well. This results in bolder and more expressive contemporary artworks.

Tips: when working with multiple colours, work with the lightest colour first and protect it with a layer of wax. Also, colour mixing principle applies. For example, do not expect a perfect shade of blue if the cloth is previously dyed yellow.

Nevertheless, be it celup or colet, dyeing batik cloths requires a lot of experimentation. Unless you are doing a mass production, exact measurement of dyeing agents is not requirement. Be bold, have fun and get ready to be surprised by your masterpieces!

Previous step: Batik Tulis: the Classic Batik Technique

Next step: Wax Removal: Revealing the Beauty of a New Batik Masterpiece