The final step in the batik process is the wax removal. Commonly known as pelorodan in Javanese, this is the moment when a new batik masterpiece is born.

Wax Removal: The Final Step

After a textile is waxed and coloured, dip the cloth into a pot of hot, boiling water mixed with soda ash. The mixture will melt all the wax (or other dye-resisting agents) that was applied in the previous step. When all the wax has melted completely, rinse the fabric with water until no wax residue remains. When working with a kain panjang (full-length batik cloth), open up all the fold lines to dislodge any wax residue. Finally, hang the cleaned batik cloth on a clothing line away from direct sunlight to dry.

Soda Ash in Batik Wax Removal Process

Other than helping to melt the wax from a batik artwork, soda ash plays an important role in textile dyeing. Let’s get a little nerdy.

Soda ash is, chemically, sodium carbonate (Na₂CO₃). It is an active ingredient found in washing soda. It is not to be mistaken with sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO₃), the main ingredient of baking soda. Based on the chemical properties, soda ash is more basic than baking soda and, therefore, commonly used to increase pH. This is exactly the use of soda ash in textile dyeing. The addition of soda ash changes the pH of the fibre-reactive dye and the cellulose fibre in the cloth, such as cotton and silk. The high pH activates the fibre molecules to form cellulose anion to chemically react with the dye. This makes strong permanent bond, resulting in long-lasting coloration.

When purchasing soda ash, ensure that there are no other additives, such as fragrance or bleach. Also, take note if it is in pure, dry (i.e. anhydrous) or crystalline form. The form translates to the different strength in the ability to increase the pH. Though theoretically one can bake baking powder to give sodium carbonate, it is a tedious additional step. The best remedial action is to simply add loads of baking powder (i.e. roughly 3 times of the usual soda ash weight or 5 times the soda ash volume). Best yet, if pH strips are available, the solution should be around pH 10.

Wax Removal is Done, What’s Next?

Once the wax is removed, a batik masterpiece is born. Savour in the revealing moment of the ravishing beauty. Of course, the creative and relentless may continue and repeat the whole process – waxing, dyeing, wax removal – for a few rounds until all the colours are applied and the desired design is completed.

Tips: To save time, artists can add layers of wax after each dyeing or colouring and perform a single final wax removal step at the very end. Keep in mind that batik is “reverse painting” technique where the batik portion (i.e. parts that are waxed) will give white outline and work with the lightest colour first.

Looking back at the whole process of batik creation, none of these are complicated rocket science. At each step, it reflects patience, dedication and love for the craft. And that is the most beautiful lesson that we can learn and appreciate from this extraordinary textile heritage.

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